26th august - upstream, km 1473

"I know, said Sheikh Abdullah, the fortune of the path. Yes, the path is irreplaceable. despite all hardship, it is what makes my heart beat faster. tomorrow, if God the Great and Glorious so decides, I will be at home, but you, you have a long way before you. I envy you."
From "The Collector of Worlds", Ilja Trojanow

sunday, bunkering water, entry formalities (EU external border), incomprehensible formalities. of course there are explanations, but it's still absurd – that a country like serbia is so shut out politically by Europe, that a whole nation was so demonised – and still is. we all felt very, very happy here, received friendship and hospitality. of the four concerts we played here three of them are among the absolute highlights of the tour; just like "our" little bay at km 1473.

we stop at this point for the second time on the journey. only for a few hours, but it is enough for a thanksgiving prayer. it is the fulfilment of the dream of a life in absolute freedom, it's a gypsy life on ship. it is a time that everyone approaches before the fall of man. the big kettle is hung over the tripod we make on the beach and for the second time peter manages to conjure up a top-class fish soup. it is 3 am when we cover the hearth with sand and return to the ship. with the full moon over the water, we continue towards home.